The producer jokingly calls it “Bone White Boissiere,” but it's indeed bracingly dry, with mouthwatering acidity. The aroma has a faint earthiness but no sweetness to it, while the palate adds mild pear and elderflower, finishing with just a squeak of citrus. Sip with a curl of lemon peel, or substitute it for dry Sherry in food pairings or cocktails. Best Buy. —K.N.