Lemon drop candy, apricot, crushed stone, bitter almond, and beeswax are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this intriguing, classy wine, the 45th-anniversary edition of what is one of Italy’s most iconic whites. The savory, elegant palate is focused and bright, delivering ripe white stone fruit, citrus, tangy mineral, and a hint of baking spice. It’s impeccably balanced, with bright acidity. Drink through 2031. —K.O.
