The NV Malmsey 10-Year-Old wafts from the glass with a rich, figgy bouquet of dried dates, demerara sugar, pecans, and sultanas. On the palate, it's full-bodied, sweet, and fleshy, with an ample, voluptuous profile and a generous core of somewhat grapey fruit, concluding with a creditably intense, expansive finish. This is a lusty, pleasure-bent Malmsey. —W.K.
