Microcósmico Macabeo wants to show the potential of the white grape (also known as Viura). It’s varietal, serious, and austere, with notes of waxy apples and hay, not too showy or perfumed, with restraint, white fruit, 13% alcohol, very good freshness, clean and integrated acidity, and a salty twist in the finish. Drink 2023-2028. —L.G.
