There’s an alluring, wild quality to this red, with chaparral and mountain herb notes up front. In contrast, olive, peppercorn and fresh leather accents chime in to join the concentrated core of plum and berry flavors, which lengthen nicely around fresh acidity before finishing smooth, with a lingering herbal element. Drink now through 2040. Top 100 Wines of 2024, #30. —A.R.