Streaks of white grapefruit and struck slate collide on the nose of this blindingly pure-fruited spätlese. Light on its feet yet powerfully concentrated with lime, apricot, and honeydew flavors, it’s an electric sip that can’t be placed anywhere but the Mosel. Medium sweet yet without a trace of sugariness, it’s irresistible now but should evolve beautifully through 2035 and hold longer still. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
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